Help Cure Bad Dog Breath

It never fails does it, you get a new puppy all warm and fuzzy and he just loves to show you affection by licking your face, and that is when you notice that fuzzy has a problem, horrible dog breath! The first thing you want to do is teach him to gargle or brush his teeth. The first thing to determine however is the source of the odor. Just like people, dogs get halitosis, or bad breath. The causes are also similar to the causes in people. Dogs can have bad breath due to poor oral hygiene or because of other underlying conditions. You should first have your dog checked out by the vet to be sure the cause is not medical.

Causes

Causes of bad breath in dogs runs from bad teeth to severe underlying medical conditions. Things like gum disease, tooth decay, gastrointestinal problems and sinus infections can all produce bad breath in your dog. Be sure you have ruled out an issue that would demand medical attention before utilizing any of the tips found below.

To prevent bad dog breath that is not medically caused it is important to begin oral hygiene practices when you first get your new puppy. This accomplishes two things at once, number one your new dog will become accustomed to the routine and not fight you as time progresses and you will likely prevent the number one cause of bad dog breath, which is gum disease. According to the American Veterinary Association 80% of all dogs have some form of gum disease.

Oral Hygiene

In the beginning, your dog may balk at having his or her teeth brushed. To start them gently you could use your fingers only for a few days, rubbing slightly on the gums to allow him to become accustomed to your touch. It can also be helpful to give a small treat for cooperation.
In order to keep your pets mouth in the best condition and prevent bad dog breath you will need a few tools.

• Doggy toothpaste- Never use your toothpaste for your pet as many brands contain Xylitol, which is harmful to dogs. Moreover, since dogs will swallow the paste it is better to use a product specifically designed for them.

• Doggy toothbrush- There are many varieties of toothbrushes you can use for your dog. There are mini, finger and dual ended dog toothbrushes to choose from and you may have to experiment to find the one your pet tolerates the best.

• Dry Cloth- Some dogs will object strongly to the use of any kind of brush in their mouth. In this case, you can use a small dry cloth to clean their teeth.

Brushing

To brush your dog's teeth effectively you should begin at the gum line and work the brush in small circles to the end of the tooth. While brushing your dog might start to squirm and get away from you, the best thing to do is to stop for the moment and revisit the tooth brushing at another time. If you force them to sit while you brush, Fido will become harder to find after he eats!

Dental Chews

You can also purchase dental chews for use after your dog's regular meal. These will help remove tough plaque and tartar that can build up over time and cause bad dog breath. Choose a chew that is double the size of your dog's mouth, but check for product recalls before purchasing, as some brands have been known to cause injury.

Conclusion

Keep your pet fit with annual veterinary visits. You vet should check the mouth for tooth decay and other oral problems and if they do not you should request one. Dogs do not always need teeth cleaning like we do, but it is a good idea to check at least once a year to be sure. Cure bad dog breath by never letting it get started in the first place!

Article written by Kelly Marshall of http://www.ohmydogsupplies.com - the leading dog supplies online store for dog grooming supplies.

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Food Allergies That Dogs Have

Food allergies make up about ten percent of all the allergies occurring in dogs and cats, coming in after inhalants and flea bites. Many people feel that diets based on lamb and rice are helping them treat or prevent allergies in their pets, but they may not be. We don't really understand how dogs become sensitive to particular foods or food ingredients. Fortunately, there are still plenty of things we do know. Let's look at the way we diagnose food allergies, how we treat them, and what the symptoms are.

Unlike inhalant allergies, there isn't a strong link between a dog being a particular breed and developing particular allergies. Male and female animals are equally affected, and neutering seems to have no effect. Allergies can show up as young as five months of age, and as late as twelve, but most dogs show their symptoms between the ages of two and six. The majority of animals with allergies to foods will also have other allergic reactions as well.

We do need to distinguish between real allergies and mere food intolerances. Food allergies involve skin problems and itching, while food intolerances tend to involve digestive issues and don't have a standard allergic response. Fortunately, the best way to treat both types of problem is to remove the food causing the allergy or insensitivity from the diet.

There are a number of ingredients that are most likely to cause allergies, including dairy, wheat, corn, chicken, eggs, soy and beef. Of course, these are also the most common ingredients in dog food. The incidence of reactions is likely associated with exposure. Lamb and rice diets have been produced to attempt to combat allergies, but there is nothing special about those ingredients except that they are uncommon in pet foods. If lamb and rice become the most common ingredients, more dogs will have reactions to them.

Most allergies in dogs have the same symptom - itchy skin. Other symptoms that come up often include scratching, skin infections, hair loss and chronic ear infections. Dogs with allergies may also have more bowel movements than non allergic dogs. Unfortunately, the fact that most allergies appear the same means that it can be hard to tell what your dog is allergic to. If your pet has recurrent ear problems, has allergies year round, has moderate to severe skin problems or doesn't respond to steroid or antihistamine treatment, food allergies might be the culprit.

Once you've ruled out all other causes of allergy and have determined the problem is definitely food, it's time to do a food trial. The method used is to feed a new source of protein and carbohydrates for twelve weeks, using foods the animal has not eaten in the past. Venison and potato, rabbit and rice, and duck and rutabaga have all been used by people making homemade diets. There are some commercial diets, too.

The pet must eat nothing else for twelve weeks, even treats. If the symptoms disappear or are reduced, the next step is to try the old food again, to make sure they return. If this happens, a food allergy is confirmed. Blood tests and skin testing may also be performed, and once a positive diagnosis is made, you can then choose a new commercial diet or a homemade diet to prevent allergies from happening again. Specific ingredients can be tested one at a time till you find the perfect diet for your pet.

Article by Kelly Marshall of Oh My Dog Supplies your top spot to buy orthopedic dog beds online.

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3 Important Tips to Remember on Puppy Training

There are as many ways to raise a puppy as there are to raising a child. In fact, one way per family in general! But most of us agree that when it comes to children, certain things are universal and undisputed. Here are three things that a lot of people just do not think of when it comes to raising their dogs, however. How many times have we heard, "My dog just won't listen to me", or "He just won't behave!"


1. Dogs do not understand English until we teach them.

The thing we all love about puppies the most is the way they live for us, the way they focus all they have on us, the way our lives become theirs. In the beginning, they study us to learn our body language, our facial expressions and our language. Until we teach them the English language, it's all they have. If we say, "Wanna go out?" one day, "Have to go potty?" the next day, and, "Hafta pee?" the third day, if they DO figure out what we want, it is because we have picked up the leash and moved toward the door with a happy face! If you want to speed up his training by three-fold, teach him YOUR language. Pick a command for EACH behavior and stick with it. Tell all in your family to use the same words and commands, and your puppy will amaze you at how much faster he learns.


2. A young puppy's metabolism is racing along faster than we think.

The younger your puppy is, the faster he is growing, the more food and water he needs to fuel his metabolism, and the more often he has to go potty. Do not punish your puppy when he makes a house-breaking mistake. These are YOUR fault. Your puppy's age in weeks and his breed size determine how often he must go out. Once an hour is not too often for a large 6-week old puppy, especially if it is summertime. Dogs love the exciting smells outdoors, so there is no excuse to not have him housebroken by 7-8 weeks of age. Right after a nap, after he eats and after grooming are the key times, and he will signal you. If he is happily chewing a toy and gets up suddenly with his nose to the floor, move quickly! And every time he goes potty outside, praise him to high heaven! "What a good BOYY!", "GOOD go potty!" and the like. Dogs love our happy faces, and they will do anything to get it.


3. Dogs live for our facial expressions and body language.

Because of this, the worst punishment you ever need to give your dog is a scowl and to turn away from him. You can see his tail fall down and his face get so sad. He will learn the lesson, I guarantee it. But his attention span is only 3-5 minutes, so do not scorn him any longer. Love him up and give him your happy face again. Physical punishment is never necessary. Use consistent commands and loving praise and he will know what you want of him before you know. He will become a master of your body language and facial expressions in no time at all.

Naturally there are many aspects of training your puppy well. Loving kindness works just as well for puppies as it does with children, creating a happy, well-adjusted and obedient dog for life. These three important tips, used consistently with confidence, will start him well on his way.


About the Author:
Dy Witt has shown, bred and trained standard poodles for 25 years. For more on her training techniques, more free articles and info on her new ebook on dog training, visit http://www.DogTraining15MinsADay.com Copyright 2006

Article Source: www.find-an-article.com/index.php?page=author&author_name=Dy Witt

DOG TRAINING THEORY AND PRACTICE: What to do when dog is afraid?

Fear is dog´s normal self-protective response to potentially injurious stimulation, it´s natural. It is expressed in three broad ways: freeze, flight and fight. Fear-elicited fighting occurs in situations involving intense fearful arousal and where flight is blocked. Outward signs of fear include a variety of body postures, facial expressions and physiological indicators. Dogs will freeze, attempt to escape or attack, depending on the fear-eliciting situation. Physiological changes in dog are among other things raised pulse, increased panting, thick salivatio, raised blood pressure, shivering and trembing, pupillary dilation, and lose bowel and bladder control. A fearful dog will often lower its head and avert eye contact, fasten its ears back and tuck the tail tightly between the legs. Fearful dogs may also scramble frantically to escape or evade a feared object while loudly whining, yelping or shrieking.

When a dog is frightened, for example sudden loud noise, it reacts instinctively. So fear is an adaptive emotional response to threats and danger. It is a basic survival mechanism. In brain fear is processed by thalamus. There are two routes, auditory cerebral cortex (slow route, processes the information and gives directives) and amygdala (fast route, subliminal). After the information has moved on, nucleus either stimulates or turns off the autonomic nervous system. Fear has its "own" region of the brain and severe fright develops a memory of the stimulus and also memory of the action and its efectiviness.

Phylogenic sources of fear include such triggers as pain, rapid stimulus change, sudden movements, heights, isolation, loud noises, strangers, fire, water, and unfamiliar enviromental and social situtations. Whereas ontogenic sources of fear are mostly the result of learning and experience. Pathogenic fear (generalized anxiety and phobia) occurs when the fearful arousal cannot be avoided or escaped. Dogs that are pathologically anxious or phobic, are unable adaptively to escape or avoid fearful arousal. So these dogs labor futilely under the influence of escalating fear and anxiety.

Systematic desensitization (classical conditioning) is a safe way to treat fear related problems. It refers to a careful manipulation of the intensity of the fear-evoking thing, so that it doesn´t generate a fear response. Desensitization requires patience and careful planning from the dog trainer. Counterconditioning (classical conditioning) is ussually used together with desensitization. It essentially involves opposing one response by the elicitation of another. To be controlled, fear must be countered by the elicitation of an even stronger and incompatible emotional response. So right after much less frightening stimulus is presented to the dog, a pleasant thing - the conterconditioning stimulus - is presented, to build a new association. This may be a favorite toy, game or tasty food, but it must be extremely potent. Systematic desensitization and counterconditioning requires a great deal of repetitions, and only after that we can start to build substitutive action to replace the fear reaction. The final goal is that the stimulus (that triggered fear) becomes a clue to do something (for example "sit", "look" etc.) that is incompatible for fear (operant conditioning).

It is important to check dog´s heath (exercise, nutrition, activivation etc.) first and sort out fear-eliciting situations and events. We must carefully identify the stimuli that evoke fear and the situations in which fearful behavior is likely to occur. For example, counterconditioning can be carried out to a wrong stimulus, if we don´t know exactly what triggers the fear in dog. Animal behaviorism also knows a method called flooding in reducing fear. Flooding is a desensitization process with direct exposure to the fear-evoking stimulus until fear subsides. A precaution needs to be carefully observed: if dog is fearful when the flooding exposure is terminated, its fearfulness might be made worse. Flooding is a problematic method because it is hard to accomplish in practice, it involves risks and it evokes stress in dog.

We can use operant conditioning also (with classical conditioning) in fear-evoking situations. In that case we reinforce dog´s calm state of mind by withdrawing the fear-evoking stimulus (negative reinforcement). So dog learns to regulate the frightening situation with its own behavior. This technique is problematic because we have to know exactly what is/are the fear-evoking stimulus and remove it/them just the right time.

Dog´s owner has also a very important role when reducing fear in the dog. Dog´s social dependency (social learning) makes it keenly aware of the behavior of others (also owner´s behavior). So its good to remember it as a assistance when redusing fear in dogs. Medication can also be one cure and assistance to fear problems.

DOG TRAINING TIPS: How to activate your dog?

Is your dog a little bit too energetic sometimes? Particularly puppies and young dogs could be rather hyperactive. Some mental stimulation keeps them more satisfied. There´s a wide range of activity toys and dog training equipments (for example kongs, soft dog toys, hard chew toys, dummies, interactive dog toys) on the market, but you can do without them!

One of the most popular dog activity games is surely hiding some food. Dog (preferably hungry) has to use its nose to find tidbits. Remember that food has to be very delicious. Hide tidbits indoors or outdoors (grass, snow, forest etc.) and make it more difficult step by step. You can also make a trail (smell) of blood or food for dog to track, and at the end of the trail is of course lots of food or dog´s favorite toy! If you dont have time to hide some food, give a delicious bone to the dog. Or if your dog isnt so fond of food, but loves his toys (ball, sticks etc.), hide them!

Lively dogs will often settle down if they are encouraged to use their brain more. Start putting an empty toilet roll on the floor and hide a tidbit inside of it. Dog has to figure out how to get the food! Make it more difficult step by step (paper roll, yoghurt can, box etc.). Some easy tricks are also very fun to learn. For example, teach your dog to sit, rollover, dance or weave in and out of your legs while you walk.

DOG TRAINING THEORY: What is a dog behavior problem?

It is not easy to define which dog´s behavior is normal and which is abnormal. And if behavior wouldnt be truly a behavior problem so abnormal behavior to the species, it still could be problematic. Identifying a behavior pattern as a problem involves a cluster of cultural and personal preferences and normative judgements. These judgements reflect owner´s attitudes and expectations assosiated with the dog´s behavior. Every owner/family has different kind of expectations, some want their dog to sleep in their bed and some dont. Dog behavior problem can be defined as a tendency or pattern of behavior that sufficiently deviates from the dog owner´s expecations or society´s norms that efforts are prompted to change it in to a more acceptable form. Dog behavior that fits our (or dog owner´s) norms and expectations is considered normal and acceptable, whereas dogs behavior that deviates too far from them is deemed abnormal or unacceptable.

Dog behavior problems develop under the influence of a complex web of experiential and biological influences. Dogs learn all the time and some behavioral problems could be just inadvertently strengthened manners (operant conditioning). Often something that dog has simply learned becomes a problematic to the dog´s owner. For example, a puppy that is allowed to jump at people doesnt understand why it can not do it anymore when he/she is grown-up (big dog--> bigger problem). Both human and environment teaches dogs.

Basis to the dog behavioral problems is that do they originate purely from what dog has learned in the past, from special and breed associated features or from individual´s genes. We can affect what puppy learns but cant impact on dog´s genes. Genome determinates long way dog´s behavior and its vulnerability to certain behavior patterns. Many behavior patterns that are natural to certain breed, are problematic in our society. For example, excessive barking when dog detectes some movement (many hunting dogs). It is important to explore dog breeds and select the right breed (need for motive or activation, home range) for you and your family. If dog´s natural need for motive can´t be content, some behavioral problems may occur.

When we discuss on dog behavioral problems, it is important to check dog´s health first. Many behavioral problem is associated with dog´s pain.

DOG TRAINING THEORY: Reinforcers and punishers

Dogs gain practical information about the social and physical environment through the consequences of their behavior so they can control and manipulate significant events vital to their interests. Animal behaviorism defines reinforcements ans punishments as follows:
Reinforcement (R) increases the relative probability of the behavior it follows.
Punishment (P) decreases the relative probability of the behavior it follows.
So dog decides what is reinforcement or punishment, and what is not. We can only observe the dog and its gesture and behavior. It is also good to decide and know what kind of behavior you want before you start training, because reinforcement will affect to dog´s behavior. Example food is calming reinforcement to the most of the dogs, but playing with toys is exciting.

Reinforcers and punishers can be divided to positive (+) and negative (-):
Positive reinforcement (R+) occurs when dogs behavior is strengthened by producing or prolonging some desirable consequence.
Negative reinforcement (R-) occurs when dogs behavior is strengthened by reducing or avoiding some undesirable consequence.
Negative punishment (P-) occurs when dogs behavior is weakened by omitting the presentation of the reinforcing consequence.
Positive punishment (P+) occurs when animals behavior is weakened by presenting the previosly escaped or avoided consequence.

Positive punishment involves lots of risks and disadvantages. It is associated with the elicitation of various concomitant emotional states, especially frustration, anxiety and fear. Punishment usually makes dog to fear something that is present in the training session. Its very likely that dog´s fear is directed to the owner, because she/he is always present. Classical conditioning occurs.

In dog training, using both positive reinforcement and positive punishment has lots of disadvantages. First of all, the power of rewards weakens. Secondly, withdrawal of reward (negative punishment) isn´t so good tool in dog training anymore. It is very powerfull to "tell" to the dog when it is doing something wrong by withdrawing reward. Punishment doesnt also tell dog what to do. Its important to remember that severe punishment causes severe risks and disadvantages. Altough we wouldnt think the ethical side of punishment, there´s still lots of good reasons not use positive punishments. When we reinforce dog´s behavior, it becomes entrepreneurial. But using positive punishments in dog training could lead to dog´s passivity, it starts to avoid the things that could lead to punishment. And if punishment has been unpredictable and uncontrollable in dog´s perspective - dog is never quite sure when punishment is going to come, and never quite sure why it is administered - it can start to avoid all activity. In that case dog´s training is nearly impossible or at least very slow, because we have to use lot of time to get some action in dog. Positive reinforcement satisfy some psychological and physiological need. For example, when dog is hungry and it learns that sitting leads to food, after several positive experiences (sitting-->food) the probability that the dog will sit on cue is increased. Trough this simple lesson, the dog not only learns how to sit, but, more importantly, the dog learns that its action can control the environment. And that is a outcome that makes learning itself intrinsically rewarding. Reinforcement also exhibits many irregular and, perhaps, unanticipated characteristics. For example, while the opportunity to eat represents a very strong reinforcer for a hungry dog, the dog may also find just smelling the food reinforcing.

When we look reinforcers and punishers in dog training, it is good to remember that the provision of anything that the dog would rather be doing at any given moment may function as a reward. And on the other hand, anything that the dog would rather not be doing at any given moment might be used as a punisher. During the training process, dogs form certain expectations and predictions about outcomes associated with their behavior. So if a dog receives a reward that is significantly smaller than expected, the outcome is perceived as punitive (and disappointing), resulting in the trial rendering the response weaker. So I repeat myself: dog decides what is reinforcement or punishment, and what is not.

Timing and repetition play very important role in dog training. For a reinforcer to be effective, it must closely follow the target behavior and optimally, the reinforcer should be presented immediately after the target behavior is emmitted. Dog only learns if the consequences of its behavior follows relatively fast. Using only unconditioned reinforcer (example food and toys), particularly teaching new things to the dog, reinforcing can be difficult. Clicker trainers use clicker as a conditioned reinforcer, but it could be any kind of stimulus. Conditioned reinforcer is needed only when we want to reinforce very precisely, in second ot two. But teaching dog long-lasting activities, example to "stay", it is not usefull anymore.

When using reinforcement in dog training, it is important to remember chedule them right. During the early stages of training, a new behavior is reinforced every time it occurs and once a stable operant level is obtained, dog´s behavior is usually brought under the control of an intermittent schedule of reinforcement. For example when you are teaching your dog to "follow", intermittent reinforcement makes the behavior more resistant to extinction. Dog never knows when the reward is presented to it and it maintains good performance through the hole exercise.