Showing posts with label puppy training. Show all posts
Showing posts with label puppy training. Show all posts

Thursday, 28 May 2009

Early Socialization - Is Your Puppy Prepared For the Outside World?


Introducing your puppy to a variety of environments and experiences is a very important step in his training process. To develop a healthy mental well-being, he needs to know that the world is a fun place to discover. This can only be achieved through proper and continuous socialization.

Socialization is consists of preparing your puppy for healthy mental development by exposing him in a good way to different sights, smells, and sounds. Socialization also includes interaction with people, dogs, other pets and other objects like moving vehicles.

A friend of mine decided to finally get a dog. Only, he barely spent time with his dog. He thought that it would be best if he kept his dog locked up in the basement and he rarely took him out to the park or even a walk around the neighborhood. A dog should not be socially awkward like my friend's pet.

He barely allowed his dog to run around in his fenced back yard. And when he did allow his dog to run around freely in the yard, the dog would go bonkers! When ever my friend travels with his dog, the dog barks and growls at everyone that walks by. This is why it is imperative that you prepare your pet for the outside world.

So, taking your puppy to a training class is a great way to introduce him to a variety of experiences. Socializing your puppy calls for much more than teaching your dog training skills. Socialization actually trains your pet to interact with different situations, explore without fear, and get to know as much as he can about the universe around him, thereby giving him a healthy life.

First and foremost, socialization should begin in your puppy's first home and his breeder should introduce him to a variety of stimuli from the moment they are born.

For example, the litter should be exposed to a variety bedding materials to get them used to different textures and surfaces. Objects like balls, squeaky toys, bubble wraps, plastic bags, and other fun items that your will enjoy should be introduced slowly and as often as possible. This helps them approach new situations with confidence.

The following are a few examples of objects and situations that your pet should see and experience from the moment he opens his cute little eyes:

1. Introducing him people wearing hoods, hats, coats, and loud clothes.
2. Watching kids play in on the playground.
3. Watching little animals (birds, squirrels, etc. - just don't allow chasing).
4. Riding in the car inside a crate with windows rolled up and then rolled down.
5. Minimal traffic.
6. The sounds of different kitchen appliances.
7. A quick trip to the vet.
8. Going up and down a stair case.
9. Meeting new people of different ages.
10. Meeting new puppies and dogs (Keep puppy on your arms and watch him closely).
11. Meeting people who use wheelchairs, walkers, and canes.
12. Minimal crowds.
13. A flying kite.
14. Introduce your new puppy to different "odd" objects like plastic bags and fire hydrants.
15. Introduce him to a variety of sights, sounds, and smells of different objects.

Article written by Kelly Marshall from Oh My Dog Supplies - visit for dog food storage containers in every size.

Tuesday, 26 May 2009

Dog Training Tips For Happy Owners and Dogs


Training your dog will guarantee that you and your dog co exist in harmony. It will make your life and your dog's life much easier, and you'll be much happier companions. Puppy training is an essential part of bringing up your dog. Dog training is:

* for every dog or puppy

* saves homes

* fosters love

* and even saves lives.

* should be adapted to each dog's character and disposition

Although obedience training will not solve all behavior problems, it provides the foundation for solving just about any problem you may encounter with your dog. It is important for both you and your dog as it helps to establish a strong bond between you and your pet. Choose an obedience class carefully. It should not be monotonous or boring for you or your pet. Obedience training, schools, and even training tips are available online, and the Internet is one of the best places to start to find a good dog training program. There are also good books and videos to get you started.

Basic pet obedience training typically consists of 6 basic behaviors:

1. Sit

2. Down

3. Stay

4. Recall ("come", "here" or "in")

5. Close (or loose-leash) walking

6. Heel

Teaching obedience in dogs helps to prevent the development of bad habits. Training your puppy is something you should start planning at the earliest opportunity. It should be a fun, enriching and bond-building experience for both of you. If it isn't, then find a new program fast. Training your dog to walk next to you on a leash is easy to do when you learn the proper techniques. However, training your dog to stop undesirable behaviors can often be a real challenge. Training your pet is the basic and fundamental step to communicating and teaching your dog obedience and good behavior. And it will bring real and substantial rewards as you build a better relationship with your pet, as well as teach him acceptable behaviors.

The fact of the matter is that dog and puppy training is simple if you use the right tips and techniques. It is important to remember that dog training is not like programming a robot who once programmed will follow all your future commands without fail.

By Carrie Plescan


About The Author

http://www.PetEssentialsDepot.com, an online pet supply store that donates a portion of every sale to animal and dog rescue shelters all around the US, offers dog obedience training books, as well as items such as GPS dog collars to help you find your pet if lost.

Monday, 25 May 2009

DOG TRAINING IN PRACTISE: Teaching conditioned reinforcer to the dog


Dog training should be fun but also effective. Using positive reinforcement requires that we can "tell" the dog precisely when it is doing something right. If we use only unconditioned reinforcer (for example food and toys), particularly teaching new things to the dog, reinforcing could be inaccurate and too slow. Trainer rewards the dog always few seconds too late. Conditioned reinforcer (for example clicker, some sound or light) makes dog training much more faster and effective. Utilizing classical conditioning we can teach to the dog that some kind of sound signal predicts a reward.

You can use any kind of reward, however food is often simplest. Play the sound signal of your choice (clicker, good-word, whistle etc.) and then give a reward to the dog. Pay attension that for example your hand doesn´t move until the sound signal ends. Repeat it many times and remember to take breaks. Add some kind of distractions to the learning situations step by step, for example train your dog in different kind of places. Other people and dogs are also good distractions. Remember that when a new distraction comes along, your dog could stay and stare it/those. Deliver the reward still and don´t repeat the sound signal! Finally you can test the signal by playing it when dog is looking somewhere else. If your dog immediately looks at you and comes to you, it has learned the signal.


I speak in next
dog training in practise-articles how to teach your dog some new tricks by using conditioned reinforcer!

Friday, 22 May 2009

3 Important Tips to Remember on Puppy Training

There are as many ways to raise a puppy as there are to raising a child. In fact, one way per family in general! But most of us agree that when it comes to children, certain things are universal and undisputed. Here are three things that a lot of people just do not think of when it comes to raising their dogs, however. How many times have we heard, "My dog just won't listen to me", or "He just won't behave!"


1. Dogs do not understand English until we teach them.

The thing we all love about puppies the most is the way they live for us, the way they focus all they have on us, the way our lives become theirs. In the beginning, they study us to learn our body language, our facial expressions and our language. Until we teach them the English language, it's all they have. If we say, "Wanna go out?" one day, "Have to go potty?" the next day, and, "Hafta pee?" the third day, if they DO figure out what we want, it is because we have picked up the leash and moved toward the door with a happy face! If you want to speed up his training by three-fold, teach him YOUR language. Pick a command for EACH behavior and stick with it. Tell all in your family to use the same words and commands, and your puppy will amaze you at how much faster he learns.


2. A young puppy's metabolism is racing along faster than we think.

The younger your puppy is, the faster he is growing, the more food and water he needs to fuel his metabolism, and the more often he has to go potty. Do not punish your puppy when he makes a house-breaking mistake. These are YOUR fault. Your puppy's age in weeks and his breed size determine how often he must go out. Once an hour is not too often for a large 6-week old puppy, especially if it is summertime. Dogs love the exciting smells outdoors, so there is no excuse to not have him housebroken by 7-8 weeks of age. Right after a nap, after he eats and after grooming are the key times, and he will signal you. If he is happily chewing a toy and gets up suddenly with his nose to the floor, move quickly! And every time he goes potty outside, praise him to high heaven! "What a good BOYY!", "GOOD go potty!" and the like. Dogs love our happy faces, and they will do anything to get it.


3. Dogs live for our facial expressions and body language.

Because of this, the worst punishment you ever need to give your dog is a scowl and to turn away from him. You can see his tail fall down and his face get so sad. He will learn the lesson, I guarantee it. But his attention span is only 3-5 minutes, so do not scorn him any longer. Love him up and give him your happy face again. Physical punishment is never necessary. Use consistent commands and loving praise and he will know what you want of him before you know. He will become a master of your body language and facial expressions in no time at all.

Naturally there are many aspects of training your puppy well. Loving kindness works just as well for puppies as it does with children, creating a happy, well-adjusted and obedient dog for life. These three important tips, used consistently with confidence, will start him well on his way.


About the Author:
Dy Witt has shown, bred and trained standard poodles for 25 years. For more on her training techniques, more free articles and info on her new ebook on dog training, visit http://www.DogTraining15MinsADay.com Copyright 2006

Article Source: www.find-an-article.com/index.php?page=author&author_name=Dy Witt

Saturday, 9 May 2009

DOG TRAINING THEORY AND PRACTICE: What to do when dog is afraid?


Fear is dog´s normal self-protective response to potentially injurious stimulation, it´s natural. It is expressed in three broad ways: freeze, flight and fight. Fear-elicited fighting occurs in situations involving intense fearful arousal and where flight is blocked. Outward signs of fear include a variety of body postures, facial expressions and physiological indicators. Dogs will freeze, attempt to escape or attack, depending on the fear-eliciting situation. Physiological changes in dog are among other things raised pulse, increased panting, thick salivatio, raised blood pressure, shivering and trembing, pupillary dilation, and lose bowel and bladder control. A fearful dog will often lower its head and avert eye contact, fasten its ears back and tuck the tail tightly between the legs. Fearful dogs may also scramble frantically to escape or evade a feared object while loudly whining, yelping or shrieking.

When a dog is frightened, for example sudden loud noise, it reacts instinctively. So fear is an adaptive emotional response to threats and danger. It is a basic survival mechanism. In brain fear is processed by thalamus. There are two routes, auditory cerebral cortex (slow route, processes the information and gives directives) and amygdala (fast route, subliminal). After the information has moved on, nucleus either stimulates or turns off the autonomic nervous system. Fear has its "own" region of the brain and severe fright develops a memory of the stimulus and also memory of the action and its efectiviness.

Phylogenic sources of fear include such triggers as pain, rapid stimulus change, sudden movements, heights, isolation, loud noises, strangers, fire, water, and unfamiliar enviromental and social situtations. Whereas ontogenic sources of fear are mostly the result of learning and experience. Pathogenic fear (generalized anxiety and phobia) occurs when the fearful arousal cannot be avoided or escaped. Dogs that are pathologically anxious or phobic, are unable adaptively to escape or avoid fearful arousal. So these dogs labor futilely under the influence of escalating fear and anxiety.

Systematic desensitization (classical conditioning) is a safe way to treat fear related problems. It refers to a careful manipulation of the intensity of the fear-evoking thing, so that it doesn´t generate a fear response. Desensitization requires patience and careful planning from the dog trainer. Counterconditioning (classical conditioning) is ussually used together with desensitization. It essentially involves opposing one response by the elicitation of another. To be controlled, fear must be countered by the elicitation of an even stronger and incompatible emotional response. So right after much less frightening stimulus is presented to the dog, a pleasant thing - the conterconditioning stimulus - is presented, to build a new association. This may be a favorite toy, game or tasty food, but it must be extremely potent. Systematic desensitization and counterconditioning requires a great deal of repetitions, and only after that we can start to build substitutive action to replace the fear reaction. The final goal is that the stimulus (that triggered fear) becomes a clue to do something (for example "sit", "look" etc.) that is incompatible for fear (operant conditioning).

It is important to check dog´s heath (exercise, nutrition, activivation etc.) first and sort out fear-eliciting situations and events. We must carefully identify the stimuli that evoke fear and the situations in which fearful behavior is likely to occur. For example, counterconditioning can be carried out to a wrong stimulus, if we don´t know exactly what triggers the fear in dog. Animal behaviorism also knows a method called flooding in reducing fear. Flooding is a desensitization process with direct exposure to the fear-evoking stimulus until fear subsides. A precaution needs to be carefully observed: if dog is fearful when the flooding exposure is terminated, its fearfulness might be made worse. Flooding is a problematic method because it is hard to accomplish in practice, it involves risks and it evokes stress in dog.

We can use operant conditioning also (with classical conditioning) in fear-evoking situations. In that case we reinforce dog´s calm state of mind by withdrawing the fear-evoking stimulus (negative reinforcement). So dog learns to regulate the frightening situation with its own behavior. This technique is problematic because we have to know exactly what is/are the fear-evoking stimulus and remove it/them just the right time.

Dog´s owner has also a very important role when reducing fear in the dog. Dog´s social dependency (social learning) makes it keenly aware of the behavior of others (also owner´s behavior). So its good to remember it as a assistance when redusing fear in dogs. Medication can also be one cure and assistance to fear problems.

Friday, 8 May 2009

DOG TRAINING TIPS: How to activate your dog?


Is your dog a little bit too energetic sometimes? Particularly puppies and young dogs could be rather hyperactive. Some mental stimulation keeps them more satisfied. There´s a wide range of activity toys and dog training equipments (for example kongs, soft dog toys, hard chew toys, dummies, interactive dog toys) on the market, but you can do without them!

One of the most popular dog activity games is surely hiding some food. Dog (preferably hungry) has to use its nose to find tidbits. Remember that food has to be very delicious. Hide tidbits indoors or outdoors (grass, snow, forest etc.) and make it more difficult step by step. You can also make a trail (smell) of blood or food for dog to track, and at the end of the trail is of course lots of food or dog´s favorite toy! If you dont have time to hide some food, give a delicious bone to the dog. Or if your dog isnt so fond of food, but loves his toys (ball, sticks etc.), hide them!

Lively dogs will often settle down if they are encouraged to use their brain more. Start putting an empty toilet roll on the floor and hide a tidbit inside of it. Dog has to figure out how to get the food! Make it more difficult step by step (paper roll, yoghurt can, box etc.). Some easy tricks are also very fun to learn. For example, teach your dog to sit, rollover, dance or weave in and out of your legs while you walk.

Wednesday, 6 May 2009

DOG TRAINING THEORY: What is a dog behavior problem?


It is not easy to define which dog´s behavior is normal and which is abnormal. And if behavior wouldnt be truly a behavior problem so abnormal behavior to the species, it still could be problematic. Identifying a behavior pattern as a problem involves a cluster of cultural and personal preferences and normative judgements. These judgements reflect owner´s attitudes and expectations assosiated with the dog´s behavior. Every owner/family has different kind of expectations, some want their dog to sleep in their bed and some dont. Dog behavior problem can be defined as a tendency or pattern of behavior that sufficiently deviates from the dog owner´s expecations or society´s norms that efforts are prompted to change it in to a more acceptable form. Dog behavior that fits our (or dog owner´s) norms and expectations is considered normal and acceptable, whereas dogs behavior that deviates too far from them is deemed abnormal or unacceptable.

Dog behavior problems develop under the influence of a complex web of experiential and biological influences. Dogs learn all the time and some behavioral problems could be just inadvertently strengthened manners (operant conditioning). Often something that dog has simply learned becomes a problematic to the dog´s owner. For example, a puppy that is allowed to jump at people doesnt understand why it can not do it anymore when he/she is grown-up (big dog--> bigger problem). Both human and environment teaches dogs.

Basis to the dog behavioral problems is that do they originate purely from what dog has learned in the past, from special and breed associated features or from individual´s genes. We can affect what puppy learns but cant impact on dog´s genes. Genome determinates long way dog´s behavior and its vulnerability to certain behavior patterns. Many behavior patterns that are natural to certain breed, are problematic in our society. For example, excessive barking when dog detectes some movement (many hunting dogs). It is important to explore dog breeds and select the right breed (need for motive or activation, home range) for you and your family. If dog´s natural need for motive can´t be content, some behavioral problems may occur.


When we discuss on dog behavioral problems, it is important to check dog´s health first. Many behavioral problem is associated with dog´s pain.

DOG TRAINING THEORY: Reinforcers and punishers


Dogs gain practical information about the social and physical environment through the consequences of their behavior so they can control and manipulate significant events vital to their interests. Animal behaviorism defines reinforcements ans punishments as follows:
Reinforcement (R) increases the relative probability of the behavior it follows.
Punishment (P) decreases the relative probability of the behavior it follows.
So dog decides what is reinforcement or punishment, and what is not. We can only observe the dog and its gesture and behavior. It is also good to decide and know what kind of behavior you want before you start training, because reinforcement will affect to dog´s behavior. Example food is calming reinforcement to the most of the dogs, but playing with toys is exciting.

Reinforcers and punishers can be divided to positive (+) and negative (-):
Positive reinforcement (R+) occurs when dogs behavior is strengthened by producing or prolonging some desirable consequence.
Negative reinforcement (R-) occurs when dogs behavior is strengthened by reducing or avoiding some undesirable consequence.
Negative punishment (P-) occurs when dogs behavior is weakened by omitting the presentation of the reinforcing consequence.
Positive punishment (P+) occurs when animals behavior is weakened by presenting the previosly escaped or avoided consequence.

Positive punishment involves lots of risks and disadvantages. It is associated with the elicitation of various concomitant emotional states, especially frustration, anxiety and fear. Punishment usually makes dog to fear something that is present in the training session. Its very likely that dog´s fear is directed to the owner, because she/he is always present.
Classical conditioning occurs.

In dog training, using both positive reinforcement and positive punishment has lots of disadvantages. First of all, the power of rewards weakens. Secondly, withdrawal of reward (negative punishment) isn´t so good tool in dog training anymore. It is very powerfull to "tell" to the dog when it is doing something wrong by withdrawing reward.
Punishment doesnt also tell dog what to do. Its important to remember that severe punishment causes severe risks and disadvantages. Altough we wouldnt think the ethical side of punishment, there´s still lots of good reasons not use positive punishments. When we reinforce dog´s behavior, it becomes entrepreneurial. But using positive punishments in dog training could lead to dog´s passivity, it starts to avoid the things that could lead to punishment. And if punishment has been unpredictable and uncontrollable in dog´s perspective - dog is never quite sure when punishment is going to come, and never quite sure why it is administered - it can start to avoid all activity. In that case dog´s training is nearly impossible or at least very slow, because we have to use lot of time to get some action in dog. Positive reinforcement satisfy some psychological and physiological need. For example, when dog is hungry and it learns that sitting leads to food, after several positive experiences (sitting-->food) the probability that the dog will sit on cue is increased. Trough this simple lesson, the dog not only learns how to sit, but, more importantly, the dog learns that its action can control the environment. And that is a outcome that makes learning itself intrinsically rewarding. Reinforcement also exhibits many irregular and, perhaps, unanticipated characteristics. For example, while the opportunity to eat represents a very strong reinforcer for a hungry dog, the dog may also find just smelling the food reinforcing.

When we look reinforcers and punishers in dog training, it is good to remember that the provision of anything that the dog would rather be doing at any given moment may function as a reward. And on the other hand, anything that the dog would rather not be doing at any given moment might be used as a punisher. During the training process, dogs form certain expectations and predictions about outcomes associated with their behavior. So if a dog receives a reward that is significantly smaller than expected, the outcome is perceived as punitive (and disappointing), resulting in the trial rendering the response weaker. So I repeat myself: dog decides what is reinforcement or punishment, and what is not.


Timing and repetition
play very important role in dog training. For a reinforcer to be effective, it must closely follow the target behavior and optimally, the reinforcer should be presented immediately after the target behavior is emmitted. Dog only learns if the consequences of its behavior follows relatively fast. Using only unconditioned reinforcer (example food and toys), particularly teaching new things to the dog, reinforcing can be difficult. Clicker trainers use clicker as a conditioned reinforcer, but it could be any kind of stimulus. Conditioned reinforcer is needed only when we want to reinforce very precisely, in second ot two. But teaching dog long-lasting activities, example to "stay", it is not usefull anymore.

When using reinforcement in dog training, it is important to remember chedule them right. During the early stages of training, a new behavior is reinforced every time it occurs and once a stable operant level is obtained, dog´s behavior is usually brought under the control of
an intermittent schedule of reinforcement. For example when you are teaching your dog to "follow", intermittent reinforcement makes the behavior more resistant to extinction. Dog never knows when the reward is presented to it and it maintains good performance through the hole exercise.

Tuesday, 5 May 2009

DOG TRAINING TIPS: What is the best reinforcer to my dog?


Put different kind of food and some toys on the ground (not closely) and watch which your dog chooses first. Does it come to you? Maybe you are (and your attention) the best reinforcer to the dog!

Does your dog like cuddling? Or does it love to run free? Those could be great reinforcers too.

Monday, 4 May 2009

DOG TRAINING THEORY: Operant conditioning


Opponent to classical conditioning is operant or instrumental conditioning. Behavioral change often involves much more complicated and dynamic interactions between the dog and the enviroment than classical conditioning can tell us. Opposed to the involuntary nature of reflexive behavior, a great deal of what dog does is very motivated and goal directed. In 1960s American psychologist, B.F. Skinner, conducted research of operant conditioning but Edward L. Thorndike, also American psychologist, found it already in 1910s. So Thorndike is credited with founding the study of instrumental learning. He was specifically interested in the question how performance improved through trial and error. Thorndike performed numerous experiments involving problem solving in cats and other animals or pets. There´s one person who is the most forceful and controversial figure in the history of behaviorism, B.F. Skinner. Like Thorndike before him, Skinner studied the effects of reward (reinforcement) and punishment for altering and controlling animal behavior. He placed far greater emphasis on the use of positive consequences rather than punishment.

Operant conditioning means the link between dog´s behavior and the consequences of the behavior. So dog learns by perceiving and being active. Operant conditioning is, unlike classical, voluntary learning. Its basic principle is that dog´s behavior is strengthened or weakened depending on the consequences dog´s behavior produces. Behavior strengthens if consequences are pleasant to the dog and weakens if consequences are unpleasant. Through the combined efficacy of classical and operant conditioning, dogs can reliably predict and control the occurence of biologically significant events. Classical learning provides dogs with predictive information about the occurence of these events, while voluntary operant efforts serve to optimize the dog´s control over them.

DOG TRAINING THEORY AND PRACTICE: Classical conditioning


Russian psychologist, Ivan Pavlov, discovered Classical, or in the terminology of behavior analysis respondent conditioning, in 1920s. It seems that classical conditioning was discovered by chance. Pavlov was investigating dog´s digestion when he noticed that the most experienced dogs that he had been testing began to salivate before the samples of food were presented to them. He started to investigate this systematically. Throughout Pavlov´s experiment, dogs were exposed to a wide variety of arbitrary stimuli (example bell and light) presented contiguously with food. Pavlov has a special laboratory constructed in wich the experimenter and a dog were separated from each other in soundproof rooms. Discovery was that conditioned stimulus (bell) began to trigger the same reactiong (salivate) in dogs that unconditioned stimulus (food) did. The associative bond between the conditioned stimulus (CS) and the unconditioned stimulus (US) is strengthened when the CS consistenly occurs just before the representation of the US and is weakened when the CS and US occur indepently of each other. So classical conditioning is unintentional and subconscious reaction to a certain stimuli.

It is important to understand how classical conditioning works and hopefully a few everyday examples will do that. Most dogs respond readily to sound of doorbell ringing and after several repetitions, in which the bell signals the arrival of someone at the door, the dog may begin to example bark. The dog has learned to correlate a previosly insignifant event (doorbell) with a significant on (visitor) and now when the doorbell rings the dog dances with excitement anticipating the visitor´s entry and greetings. But what starts to happen if dogs owner doesn´t open the door when doorbell rings? After several sessions of nonreinforced exposures to the bell, the dog will gradually inhibit its anticipatory reactions and finally ignore the sound altogether. We can say that the conditioned effect has been
extinguished.

Classical conditioning has also an important role in the development of anxiety and fears. For instance, dogs easily develope fears associated with the veterinary clinic, expecially if they have undergone painfull procedures there. It may help to prevent negative associations to the veterinary clinic when we provide dogs or puppies treats and other pleasurable experiences while being examined. But what if dog doesnt it eat in that situtation? Its probably too stressed (or not hungry) and you have to start giving food to the dog earlier (example in the hospital parking lot). Lifelong phobic reactions can also occur as the result of a single traumatic event and dogs suffer a broad spectrum of phobic fears, most of which are established and reversed through classical conditioning.

But does Pavlov have anything really good information for us to use in dog training? You may have heard about clicker training. When we examine clicker training through classical contioning, clicker is
conditioned stimulus (CS) and food (or some else reinforcement) is unconditioned stimulus (US). Clicker is a mechanical device that makes a short, distinct "click" sound which tells the animal exactly when they're doing the right thing and its combined with positive reinforcement. You can also use something else than clicker, example light, whistle or some other sound. Other important information of Pavlovian conditioning is counterconditioning. It plays avital role in the learning and unlearning of emotial reactions. So in dog training, resolving fears and other problems (example phobias, separation anxiety and aggressiviness), classical conditioning may be required. Classically conditioned responses are largely autonomous and independent of central control, unlike instrumental behavior. Dogs dont choose to feel fearfull or anxious. To be controlled, an aversive emotion like angre or fear, must be countered by the elicitation of an ever stronger and incompatible emotional response.

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